Ann missed her connection in Atlanta (due to Delta’s typical, but still incredible incompetence and complete lack of accountability), so she came a day late into her already tight schedule. I took her to the “Modern Art Museum” just around the corner for starters:
which looked like it hadn’t been open in at least a decade. So we wandered down to Puerto Madero and then to one of my favorite restaurants, Café San Juan, back in San Telmo with my neighbors, Keith and Michael for a great dinner before the Red Door for chili bombs:
On Wednesday we went to MALBA, the actual functional modern art museum, and then across town to La Boca to catch the sunset and have dinner at my new favorite restaurant: Don Carlos “Carlitos” next to the Boca Juniors stadium in La Boca, of all places. And although I don’t usually trust anyone with two first names (let alone three), we put ourselves entirely in the hands of Carlitos himself and let him stuff us with a fifteen course meal, completely of his choosing.
“The lady may have a little room left for a very small dessert,” I said after he had brought us a plate of cheese sorrentinos (delicious fat raviolis) to chase down our steaks. Instead of a single, “very small dessert”, he brought three rather large desserts, which we inhaled shamelessly. The bill, like the menu, was completely arbitrary. We were so drunk on food, literally euphoric, that we would have paid anything. It was an amazing experience and surprisingly reasonable. We unfortunately ate too quickly to take any pictures.
After we aborted trips to both Uruguay and the Paraná Delta (not having much luck with deltas), due to a late start and drizzle yesterday, we settled for a tour of Recoleta Cemetery from a resident guide:
and went to Bellas Artes for some more culture. Our walk to the massive Retiro train / bus station for bargain bags and sneakers and the half hour wait at a cash machine was more than enough of a side trip experience. We’re going to spend the day (what’s left of it) in Palermo and then go to ‘real’ karaoke tonight back in the hood.
Here’s a funny and popular local flea treatment product to round out this post: